COTOPAXI CLIMBING 2D/1N
The Ecuadorean Andes with over 140 million years old has evolved the ice age period giving us four collosal active glaciated volcanoes unique around the world and more than one hundred highest points found on this mountain range. We have the priviledge to have one the world's most symmetrical shaped active and highest volcano due to its location on the Equator, the magnificent Cotopaxi, being the second highest mountain in Ecuador with 20 square km. of glaciers has become mountain climbers favourite summit. Due to its location in the central range its possible to climb all year round with temperature variations depending on the month of the year as in the past years global warming has been influencing normal weather patterns in our planet.
Route description
Our climb begins at the parking area 4500m / 14500ft on an easy 25-30 degree swith back slope that ends at the refuge 4800 m / 15500 ft where after an hour hike on a rock and volcanic ash path along a 30 degree slope before we reach the entrance of the glacier at 5100 m/ 16800ft at this point crampons, rope teams, prussiks will be escencial for a safer 5/6 hour climb to the summit. Our first 300ft traverse towards the West will lead us to a snow non glaciated ramp of 40-45 degrees where low temperatures will be escential to get a firm footing to reach the main glacial platform at 5250 m / 17300 ft. The approach from here is over snowbridges where running belays if neccessary are set at 5400m / 17800ft ; a moderate 40 degree ridge with short steep slopes leads us to the right base of a 150m /500ft volcanic rock wall knowned as "Yanasacha" (Indigenous Quichua word meaning black rock). Here we find a shelter rest spot before our final 1/2 hour final ascent . During the last 200m / 660ft we head up straight forward on a 45-50 degree gradient that leads us into the bottom of a major crevasse at 19000ft where a steep 60 degree rope pitch to exit is neccessary at this section running belays and fixed lines will be placed. Depending on the season we will use a metal ladder or climb on the left side of it , looking for a collapsed climbeable section of this crevasse on a snow or ice slope. There is a 45/50 degree final ascent that heads straight up to the crater rim where the gradient decreases for a last 15 minute climb towards the summit. The descent back to the refuge will be approx 2/3 hours following the same route with some rest stops to recover and enjoy the scenery on the way back.
The highest and most impressive summit of the Avenue of the Volcanoes considered for many years the highest point in the world because of the position on the bulged side of the planet, rising on the West range of the Ecuadorean Andes offering outstanding views of the coastal lowlands reminds us of its impossing height. This magnificent massive volcano has a unique landscape due to its altitude and volcanic eruptions thousands of years ago.
Route description
After a 1hour hike between the two refuges our climb begins at 5000m/16500ft following a small stream towards a plateau at the base of a large 30degree rock slope of 300m/1000ft where the entrance of the glacier begins. A 200m /660ft mix ascent over rock and ice on a 35/40 degree terrain leads us towards the main climbing ridge above "el castillo " route at 5500m / 18200ft. This particular area must be climbed early moving efficiently to gain altitude in orden to avoid the rock falling. From here we have a straight forward 5/6 hour ascent on a 40/45 degree gradient slope up to 5800m /19000 ft crossing small crevassse sections along the way. We traverse to the East following the ridge towards the Veintimilla summit 6270m /20700ft where a summit plateau gradually decreases and 40 m /130 ft elevation gain separates us from the highest point on the Equator. The physical demand and the altitude makes this challenge a long 10 /12 hours roundtrip rewarding climb.
CHIMBORAZO CLIMBING
Cayambe is the only place in the world where the Equator line crosses below the summit of a glaciated volcano where its latitude and temperature are zero. Worshiped by indigenous cultures due to its location between precolombian and inca ruins has been considered sacred dated back to 600 years ago. It is located to the Northeast of Quito being the second coldest mountain on the Ecuadorean Andean Eastern range influenced by the Amazon basin, also known as the third highest summit in the American continents found North of the Equator.
Route description
The normal route is probably consider the less steep and strenous from the other three main volcanoes in Ecuador. Here route finding and negotiating our way through crevassed area will be the challenge . Our climb goes to the left of the Refuge at 4600m/15200ft following a rocky ridge where a 5m/16ft scramble section becomes tricky when wet , this 30/35 degrees ridge ends on a platform at 4850m/15900ft on the right side of a glacier lake .
The beginning of the glacier on this face of the mountain is at 4900m/16100ft, where a 2 hour traverse on a gentle 35/40 degrees gradient leads us north up the mountain towards a rocky island formation named " Picos Jarrin " at 5300m/17500ft . From this area we move right below a main climbing ridge heading to the East working our way through considerable large crevasses before we get on an opening bergschrund at the base of the final glacial slopes 200 m/650ft below the summit. A belayed 55/60 degrees climbing pitch on a snow wall , gets us 80m/260ft below the summit on the base of the main climbing dome. The last 20m/60ft section of its upper wall will be on a steep ice or hard snow of a 50/55degrees gradient where a belaying anchor will welcome us to the summit of this tropical glaciated volcano. Our 2/3 hour descent will follow the same route.
CAYAMBE CLIMBING 2D/1N
ANTISANA SOUTH
Our approach begins from the refuge at 4600m/15200ft by the narrow path that moves along to the left side of the saddle that separates both peaks. After a one hour hike on a 30/35degree rock and volcanic ash terrain we reach the beginning of the glacier. The traverse on the base of a morraine is a mix terrain on hard ice and gravel leading us below a 20 m/66 ft rock wall to sramble onto the glacier platform at 4800m/15800ft . The climb from here is enjoyable, ice srews and snow pickets will be placed to secure our route all the time. The snow or ice ramps get steeper as we gain altitude, frontpointing between 45 and 70 degrees and short moves of 5 m/17 ft up to 75/80 degrees. This slopes will guide us to a major crevasse 150m/500ft below the summit before the final climbing ridge where the gradient drops to 45/50 degrees running belays and fixed lines will make this summit an unforgettable experience.
Iliniza North 5126m/16817ft
During the eruptive activity of these volcanoes a major eruption thousands of years ago collapsed the East and West face of the rim of the crater , as a result of this event two main peaks outstand Southwest of Quito Iliniza North and Iliniza South. The last one being higher in altitude still preserves some of its glaciers on the West side while the other is a rocky mountain with eventual snow covered slopes depending on the time of year. This landscape is affected differently on both peaks by the wind and the humidity that the altitude of the South peak generates. The North peak offers excellent acclimatization for the higher peaks and for beginners that enjoy outdoor sports. The South peak offers great challenge for those who like to practice their glacier climbing skills.
ILINIZA NORTH 5126m/16817ft
We follow the path up to the saddle that divides both peaks on the right side of the crater. The climb from here is on and beyond the East ridge avoiding loose scree and volcanic ash with small scrambling sections up to 5000m / 16500ft where a traverse to the North face of the peak begins. Depending on the time of the year this can be covered with snow or ice making the climb technical. The scrambling sections are short moves of 6m/ 20 ft on a rock class 5.3 not steeper than 50 degrees. This 2/3 hour from the refuge offers stunning views of the Avenue of the Volcanoes.
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